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More than ottoman minarets and fascinating bazaars, Turkey’s cultural capital is also fashionable and progressive. Spanning both Asia and Europe and divided by the Bosphorus, Istanbul is a enticing mix of ancient and modern, of conservative and secular. The massive complex of Hagia Sophia and luxurious Topkapi Palace dominate the old city Sultanahmet, but over in Karakoy, in a converted warehouse, the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art embraces the future.